IIJS Premiere 2025 captured the spirit of an industry in motion. Amid tariff shocks and gold price pressures, creativity remained India’s sharpest edge.
Held between July 30 and August 4 across the Jio World Convention Centre and the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai, IIJS Premiere 2025 stood at a decisive crossroads—celebrating four decades of excellence while stepping into a new identity. As announced during the show, IIJS will be officially rebranded as IIJS Bharat from 2026 onwards, with the support of the Indian government. The new name signals both pride and ambition, reflecting India’s aspirations to be not just a manufacturing hub but a design and innovation leader in the global jewellery space.
This year’s edition brought together thousands of trade visitors, exhibitors, and buyers from across India and over 60 countries. But beyond the scale and business, what truly defined the show was the spirit of adaptation—a renewed focus on creativity, agility, and storytelling in the face of an increasingly complex global environment.
LIGHTWEIGHT LUXURY
Gold designs at the show leaned distinctly toward ultra-lightweight 24-karat creations. High gold prices and shifting consumer preferences made weight-conscious jewellery more than just a practical choice—it became a design challenge embraced with finesse. From negative space to openwork textures, goldsmiths explored how to retain a sense of richness while dramatically reducing weight.
Another strong visual thread across booths was the dominance of long chains. These were designed for layering, movement, and modular wear, suited for contemporary dressing while drawing from India’s history of ornate draping and form. Lightweight didn’t mean less opulent; instead, designers found new ways to stretch the idea of luxury through length, versatility, and structure.
The overarching theme of “Brilliant Bharat: Architecture of India” was visible in motifs across collections. Domes, jali patterns, temple pillars, and regional flourishes surfaced in miniature form, often stylized to feel both nostalgic and modern. Across metals and gemstones, jewellery was no longer just an accessory, but a reference to time, place, and identity.
COLOUR GEMSTONES COME TO THE FORE
One of the most striking developments this year was the apparent shift toward coloured gemstones—particularly morganites, aquamarines, and rubellites. These pastel-hued stones appeared across product categories: bridal necklaces, cocktail rings, daily-wear pendants, and even men’s accessories. Their gentle tones offered contrast to the dominance of diamonds, making them a preferred choice for both experimentation and subtle sophistication.
The choice of these gemstones reflects broader lifestyle trends—softer palettes, an emphasis on self-expression, and the idea of jewellery as an extension of personal mood rather than social formality. From powder pinks and icy blues to vivid berry tones, the gemstone story this year was one of balance, optimism, and freshness.
Designers used these gems to break the predictability of traditional sets. By pairing them with rose gold, matte textures, or architectural frameworks, they offered alternatives to buyers looking for something beyond legacy codes.
NAVIGATING THE TARIFF SHOCK
Just days before the show, the jewellery industry was hit with an unexpected development: the announcement of a 25% tariff on Indian jewellery and diamond exports to the United States, effective August 1, 2025. This escalation sent ripples across the show floor, especially for manufacturers and exporters whose primary clientele is U.S.-based.
The United States has long been a crucial market for Indian jewellery, particularly for diamonds, which form the backbone of exports from centres like Surat. A sudden tariff increase at this scale brings uncertainty into pricing, delivery timelines, and volume commitments. The immediate effect was a pause in U.S. orders, with several buyers reportedly renegotiating contracts or delaying shipments.
For many, this felt like a step back after recent signs of recovery and demand resurgence. The financial implications of the tariff dampened the optimism from earlier global shows like JCK Vegas, and conversations at IIJS quickly turned toward strategy, resilience, and survival.
STRATEGIC SHIFTS AND DESIGN RESPONSE
Rather than reacting with panic, the industry is responding with strategic recalibration. First, by turning inward. The domestic market, with its upcoming festival and wedding season, remains strong. Retailers are seeing demand for lightweight gold and gemstone-studded jewellery that is versatile and emotionally resonant. This gives brands a chance to test new formats, expand direct-to-consumer channels, and build long-term loyalty.
Second, there’s a visible design response. Exhibitors leaned into narrative-led jewellery pieces that celebrate heritage, architecture, or spiritual symbolism. When a piece has a story, it transcends the weight or material—it becomes an object of emotional memory. Buyers, particularly younger and aspirational ones, are gravitating toward jewellery that feels personal and expressive rather than purely ornamental.
Third, the trade is accelerating efforts to diversify export markets. The recently ratified India–UK Free Trade Agreement, which offers zero-duty access for jewellery, is expected to open new doors. With the UK showing an increasing appetite for design-forward collections—especially those featuring coloured stones and sustainable practices—many manufacturers are already shifting focus. Interest is also growing in Europe, the Middle East, and parts of Africa
CREATIVITY AS CURRENCY
The most optimistic takeaway from IIJS Premiere 2025 was the creative confidence on display. Despite macroeconomic challenges and geopolitical uncertainties, the jewellery industry showed that it is willing to evolve, not just in form, but in purpose.
Brands aren’t merely pushing products; they are crafting collections that reflect evolving cultural narratives. Gender-neutral jewellery, temple-inspired chokers with detachable elements, handcrafted gemstone talismans, and statement ear cuffs inspired by Indian architectural motifs all point to a sector that understands its consumers, and isn’t afraid to move with them.
The rise of coloured gemstones is particularly symbolic. These stones reflect a change in tempo, away from the polished perfection of diamonds and toward more organic, emotionally textured forms of beauty. They carry stories of place, geology, time, and feeling. And in doing so, they help jewellery become not just a symbol of wealth, but a language of identity.
THE ROAD TO IIJS BHARAT
As the industry looks toward IIJS Bharat 2026, the rebranding is more than a name change—it’s an invitation to reset. With a new title comes the chance to reposition India as not just a source of stones or a processing hub, but a global thought leader in jewellery design, craftsmanship, and innovation.
This edition of IIJS offered a glimpse into that future. Amid the trade turbulence, there was renewed investment in layout, digital tools, international buyer programs, and sustainability dialogues. Exhibitors showcased not just products, but purpose.
From design-driven diversification to market agility, the path ahead will demand both grit and imagination. But if the colour-soaked showcases and idea-rich booths of 2025 are any indication, the industry is more than ready.
Jewellery, after all, is forged under pressure. And like the gems that define it, the Indian jewellery industry continues to shine—quietly, beautifully, and with infinite resilience