Heritage’s Dec. 7 Holiday Fine Jewelry Signature® Auction showcases rarity in various forms: a flawless diamond, four unheated Kashmir sapphires, and a limited-edition miniature polar landscape. These standout pieces highlight an event that combines extraordinary gemstones with unique designs from renowned jewelers. "Rarity is the defining word for this auction," says Jill Burgum, Heritage’s Executive Director of Fine Jewelry. "A flawless diamond is exceptional on its own, but pairing it with four unheated Kashmir sapphires offers bidders diverse opportunities to acquire something truly extraordinary."
The centerpiece is a 3.52-carat rectangular step-cut diamond set in a custom platinum and 18k gold ring. Graded D color and Flawless clarity by the Gemological Institute of America, the diamond also holds the rare Type IIa classification, known for its chemical purity and optical transparency. Its sleek geometry is enhanced by a bespoke mounting crafted for its current owner.
The Kashmir sapphires represent another facet of rarity. Among the rarest natural gemstones, these sapphires were historically mined in the remote Zanskar mountain range of the Himalayas starting in 1881, with production ceasing after only a few years. Heritage’s auction features four rings showcasing these coveted stones in distinct settings. An 8.15-carat emerald-cut Kashmir sapphire is set in a three-stone platinum ring, flanked by emerald-cut diamonds totaling 3.56 carats. A 7.33-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire is mounted in a ring with brushed 18k gold on the exterior and a platinum inner band, with an AGL Prestige Gemstone Report confirming its Kashmir origin and lack of heat treatment.
Adding historical significance, a 3.28-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire ring from the estate of Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Walter Lippmann features a halo of European-cut diamonds around the blue center stone, accompanied by GIA and AGL reports verifying its Kashmir origin and no heat enhancement.
Completing the collection is an antique ring with a cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire weighing approximately 3.00 carats, surrounded by approximately 1.75 carats of European-cut diamonds. The sapphire has a GIA "Royal Blue" designation, with GIA and AGL reports confirming its Kashmir origin and absence of heat treatment. A platinum gallery and 18k gold band lend this piece a delicate charm distinct from the larger, more architectural designs.
The auction's centerpiece offers a whimsical take on rarity during the holiday season. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels “Paysage Polaire” Extraordinary Dials watch is number 6 in a limited edition of 22. Its dial features a diamond-adorned polar bear with her two cubs in an Arctic landscape crafted from layered mother-of-pearl marquetry and blue enamel. A glacial arch rises behind the scene, while diamonds embellish the bezel, lugs, and crown of the 18k white gold timepiece, transforming the winter tableau into a miniature masterpiece.
The vibrant theme continues with a 1.07-carat Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline, unmounted and showcasing vivid blue hues that shift under varying lighting conditions, with no evidence of heat treatment. A Colombian emerald and diamond necklace makes a bold statement, featuring approximately 40.00 carats of emerald-cut emeralds paired with around 30.55 carats of pear-shaped and full-cut diamonds set in 18k yellow gold.
Adding a touch of deep red, a Burma ruby and diamond bracelet showcases alternating octagonal-shaped rubies totaling 15.05 carats alongside baguette-cut diamonds totaling 7.68 carats in 18k white and yellow gold. A GIA report confirms the rubies are Burmese and unheated. For those seeking substantial diamonds, the auction highlights a 17.75-carat cut-cornered square modified brilliant-cut diamond set in a Jacques Timey mounting for Harry Winston. The platinum setting features tapered baguettes, round diamonds, and layered shoulders framing the central stone, with an open gallery revealing intricate craftsmanship.
As with every Fine Jewelry auction at Heritage, the holiday sale showcases an impressive selection of designer brands, including Bvlgari, Cartier, Lalaounis, Margot McKinney, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and David Webb, among others. A Cartier Art Deco bracelet features approximately 26.50 carats of carré-cut diamonds paired with around 15.00 carats of square-shaped sapphires set in platinum.
Meanwhile, a collaboration between Daniel Arsham and Tiffany & Co. introduces a modern sculptural element with the limited-edition T1 bracelet, which combines diamonds and green tsavorite garnets in 18k white gold and is presented alongside a Venus of Arles bust that opens to reveal the piece. Limited to 186 editions, this design integrates the jewel into the artwork itself.
Other highlights include a diamond-clasp gold purse by Van Cleef & Arpels, a white-enamel cuff by David Webb adorned with diamond-set lightning-shaped accents, and a circa 1970 Bvlgari Monete bracelet featuring a $20 Saint-Gaudens gold coin. Additional standout pieces include Boulder opal earrings by Margot McKinney and a textured gold collar by Ilias Lalaounis, offering diverse interpretations of color and form.