A vibrant mix of rare gemstones, signed jewels, and historic designs took center stage at the Fine Jewellery California auction presented by Bonham's on March 5, 2026.
The live sale featured 318 lots and brought together exceptional creations from some of the world’s most celebrated jewellery houses, including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., and Bulgari. The catalogue also showcased pieces by notable designers Andrew Clunn and Verdura, reflecting a wide spectrum of craftsmanship and design heritage.
The auction achieved a total of $3,072,212, with 85% of lots sold and an impressive 99% sold by value.
One of the standout moments of the sale came from a private collection of 12 jewels by American designer David Webb. The group sold in its entirety, achieving a perfect sell-through rate and reaffirming strong collector interest in Webb’s bold, sculptural style.
Colored gemstones — particularly emeralds — proved to be among the strongest performers. The top lot of the sale was an unmounted 2.95-carat oval Colombian emerald. Estimated at just $6,000–$8,000, the stone dramatically surpassed expectations to sell for $83,050 — more than thirteen times its pre-sale estimate.
Another emerald highlight was a platinum necklace featuring a heart-shaped Colombian emerald suspended within a scroll design and accented with marquise, round brilliant, and baguette-cut diamonds. The piece also achieved $83,050, soaring past its $18,000–$22,000 estimate.
According to Caroline Morrissey, SVP and Head of Jewellery at Bonham's US, the sale generated intense bidding activity, particularly for high-quality coloured gemstones. Emeralds, in particular, attracted strong competition, while the complete sale of the David Webb collection demonstrated the enduring fascination collectors have for distinctive, signed jewellery.
Together, the results reflected a buoyant market where rare gemstones, heritage design, and recognized makers continue to command global attention.